The Jackdaw, High Street, Conwy

www.thejackdawconwy.co.uk

EATING out is wonderful, its not just about the food it's a whole 'experience'.

Of course the food needs to take centre stage but location, service and ambience have strong supporting roles to play and if you are going to spend your hard earned money, a treat should be a real treat.

That was what our visit to The Jackdaw in Conwy really was.

Our trip to beautiful Conwy coincided with the town's amazing honey fair which dates back to a 700 year old charter with beautiful sunshine making the day even more special.

The streets were 'buzzing' with life and tucked away off the High Street is Jackdaw.

Proprietor and chef Nick Rudge was raised in Llandudno. His catering career started at Llandrillo College in Rhos on Sea.

From college Nick was lucky enough to stage at Heston Blumenthal’s Three Michelin Starred The Fat Duck, during his time he learnt a wealth of knowledge, and from a stage was then fortunate to secure a permanent position as Commis Chef at the age of 19.

Progressing through the ranks at The Fat Duck, from Commis to eventually Junior Sous Chef and stopping off for an eight month relocation to Melbourne during the time, fast forward to 2021 and everything changes with the world goes into yet another lockdown.

During the 2020 lockdowns he came up with the idea and concept for ‘The Jackdaw’, admittedly starting off not quite how he planned with ‘The Jackdaw At Home’… to their delight from his parents kitchen. ‘The Jackdaw At Home’ was a finish at home delivery box service, which was a tremendous success, which then allowed ‘The Jackdaw’ to happen.

As it was lunchtime we got to sample his summer lunch menu.

It is five courses for £55 per person and comprises of:

  • "Bread of Heaven"- Llanrhystud Wheat Kefir Bread & Homemade Butter
  • Sioni Winwns- Confit Roscoff & 'Sour Cereal'
  • Barbecued Seabass-Morels, Confit artichoke & Roast Fish Bone Sauce
  • Blueberry Ripple on a camomile infused sponge
  • Heartland coffee and Piemonte Nocciola -Hazelnut Gelato, Coffee & Marsala Meringue

My very first job was in a bakery so my love for bread has never waned. The crust on the bread was perfectly crunchy and crisp while the inside was pillow soft. As for the butter the barley one for me was the highlight and really stood out, very moreish.

I have to admit when I first saw onion on the menu I did not expect to be blown away. With this dish Nick has elevated the humble onion to another level and as for the broth! The taste sensation was stunning, umami and unctuous, a real depth of flavour. If that was sold by the bottle then I would be a regular purchaser. Onion does not sound glamorous, its the background and base of many dishes, but here it took the spotlight and after Nick worked his culinary magic it deserved to be so and was the real stand our dish for me.

It was stunning.

Next came barbecued sea bass with artichoke and morels, again with a delicious sauce, this time roasted fish bones. The bass was cooked perfectly and fell into beautiful flavourful flakes.

Pre desert was blueberry ripple and for those with a sweet tooth it certainly ticked the boxes. The 'ripple' was sat on a camomile soaked sponge which was delicate and delicious.

Desert was a coffee lovers delight as it was hazelnut ice cream with coffee and marsala meringue. This too for me was a stunning dish as the hazelnut, coffee and meringue all worked in harmony together.

The staff at the Jackdaw also added to the culinary experience. They were attentive, knowledgeable about the food they were serving and keen to share what their favourite dishes were. The restaurant itself was up a flight of stairs and there was a relaxing lunchtime atmosphere but I can imagine the space feeling quite intimate in the evening when the menu changes and expands.

All the food at Jackdaw is seasonal and produced locally and I was inspired to select a glass of sauvignon blanc from a Conwy vineyard when I saw how many miles my first choice, from New Zealand had travelled. I have to say I was not disappointed and it was an excellent glass of wine produce just a couple of miles away.

Speaking to Nick its obvious how passionate he is about his job.

He said:" There is alot of trial and error in putting together the flavours to get the end result right. It's all about trying different things, trying things we have not had before.

"Trying to be different I suppose, if we were to do regular things then people could go to any restaurant I suppose."

Nick explained that to put a menu together a lot of blind tasting takes place. The menus are broken down into seasons and as soon as one season's menu is available work has already begun on the next.

Autumn is due to start in two weeks time and Nick admits that is still being tweaked with dished being tasted this week.

I'm really excited to get going, its really important you love what you do, its rare but I am lucky. I want to make it as great for the guest as possible."

For the future he is concentrating on the Jackdaw but says his dream is to have a more 'casual, restaurant not a tasting menu. 

He also recognises the need of affordability.

He said: "We may even reduce the lunch menu in cost, I think people, as we go on, think we are going to get more expensive we do need to get more affordable. I'm in the same boat as everyone, going out to eat needs to be affordable it needs to be for everybody. Our current lunch menu is affordable but could be slightly cheaper and it is something I am working on."

Jackdaw is a must for any foodie. Nick's flavour combinations are intriguing and his cookery skills plain for all to see.